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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.